Marocco 2012

Part one

This year we set over to Morocco on the 12/12/12....what a nice date to leave Europe and get to Africa! The ferry left later than supposed to because we had to wait for some travel busses to arrive, so I went to the bathroom to wash my hair in the sink. What a nice feeling!!!If you don’t have those things every day, you really appreciate a hair wash, shower and anything that is actually luxus.

After we arrived at the port of Tanger, we had to get through customs, which took about an hour, but all in all was relaxed and easy. We decided to get on the highway, pay the maut, and get going. Everything was fine till the moment we passed the first paying station. Only about a kilometer away from the station something started making very strong noises in the motor and we had to pull over....the dynamo was not turning.....and we are standing on the highway in Morocco with crazy truck drivers passing us with quite some speed. Well...no panic, for all there is a solution. We checked what could be broken but couldn’t really see anything so we put lots of WD40 on it and the sound stopped. Cool...off we are again....or not....the sound came back and so we pulled in at a gas station...maybe they have a mechanic there.

Slowly it was getting late but the guys from the washing station called a mechanic who arrived about half an hour later. Now we have to see what he says and then....discuss the price!!!Hard job, especially if you don’t know how much this work is worth. Well, in the end he said we had to change the belts and so we argued about the price for the belts and his work. In the end we paid 400dh (which is WAY too much) and had to stay the night at the gas stations parking lot. And all we wanted was getting somewhere, relax and recover a little. But the universe thought different.

Next morning we left quite early, all night trucks coming and going...it certainly was not a nice night. And the it happened again. A few meters from the exit to Assilah, we just have passed the entrance, the sound came back and this time WD40 didn’t help at all. We thought what we should do, getting our friend to pull us to the next place where we could stop or going backwards down the entrance and hopefully being able to get out and go to the village?!

We decided for the second option and so we went....two campers...backwards down an entrance to the highway...in Morocco. This was quite an experience for me since Patrick was checking the traffic of the incoming cars, while I had to drive.

After we finally made it we went with about 40km/h to the village Assilah looking for a mechanic. We found one at the beginning of the town, "Garage Mecanique des amis" where a group of young guys was working. They fixed our dynamo, we got another new belt and Chris was getting his whole motor out to change rings so his camper would stop dripping oil. It was a very fun and nice atmosphere and the guys did a good job. We stayed the night at a parking on the beach.

The next day we got up early....today we wanted to get to Oualidia, finally and relax a few days before going to Essaouira. But again, the universe had other plans for us, so when we stopped to get some gas we discovered that our motor was losing water! But since it was only dripping a bit we decided to keep going and check in Oualidia a mechanic.

Our next stop was in El Jadida at a gas station to get some gas and there....all the cooling water was coming out....no way we could go any further. We talked to the guys and one told us he has a friend who is mechanic and he could call him the next morning....it looked like our water pump was broken.

So we stayed another night at a gas station...this time on the parking of the restaurant which belongs to the gas station, next to the playground for the kids. When I left Maya out they all wanted to touch her but where too scared to do so till one moment and then Maya was the puppet, getting hugged, touched, patted and laughed at until it was getting too busy for her and we went inside.

In the morning the guy called his friend, who came to pick us up and guide us to his place. There we got the pump fixed in about two hours and then finally the time came to leave and keep going. We arrived in Oualidia a bit after sunset and were all happy to stay for two days and load up energy.

Two days later we left and went to Essaouira where we suddenly on the market met our friend Carmen. With Carmen and Herbert we stayed two years ago quite a long time together in Morocco, we met them on the ferry and decided to go together for a while. We knew they were in Morocco and also wanted to meet them, but that we would run into them was surely a surprise. And Carmen told us they were staying in Sidi Kaouki at the camper parking where we stayed last year. Jus the place we wanted to head to.

In Sidi Kaouki we stayed for eight nights, our friends left us after five nights, so now we are alone again, heading towards Sidi Ifni to meet our friends Francesca, Luca and their daughter Greta.

Stay tuned what happens next!

Part two

After we left Sidi Kaouki we went to Moulay-Bouzerktoun where Patrick had a Windsurf Session.

When we got there, a girl came to us, selling handmade woolen hats and Patrick loved them so much that he bought two. Five minutes later there came a boy, also selling those hats and we bought again two for Patrick! And they wanted to sell more....yep they were trying hard but we already had enough and luckily there came a new camper and the kids decided to check it out, sneaking around it, waiting for someone to come out. But no one did.

We stayed one night and went off again, wanting to leave to go to Sidi Ifni. But how it sometimes happens, plans get changed but higher forces and so did ours.

On the road from Moulay suddenly our tire busted and it took us ages to get the other one out from underneath the camper. It was holded up by an iron rope and with an iron bar you had to get it down. After a while a German couple stopped to see if we need some help and Patrick and the guy tried to get the tire off the metal construction which was holding it. But they couldn’t see how, so they cut the iron rope. BIG mistake.

After we got the tire out from underneath the camper, the solution how to get the tire off the construction was very obvious, but well, now it is broken and we have to find someone to fix it for us, otherwise we would have to put the new tire inside for the whole trip.

So we went back to Essaouira to get a new tire and one of the things that are NOT cheap at all in Morocco are tires. So we paid about 90€ for a new one, checked at a mechanic for getting our breaks fixed and the iron rope but they told us to go to Agadir with this. Later we decided. First we wanted to go to Sidi Ifni, New Years was close.

One more night in Sidi Kaouki and off we went....and it was a looooong trip. We arrived in the night, met Luca and Francesca and decided to stay outside of the camping for the first night, since we got there late.

Next morning finally we went on the camping and took our first hot shower after a looooong time. Wow, what a feeling. Those moments make you appreciate a hot shower even more, and you also see how we take so many things for granted in life.

So for the last three weeks we have been here in Sidi Ifni, relaxing, surfing, doing yoga and recharging our batteries till we are gone again.

Today I went the first time to a Hammam. Francesca came with me and it was wonderful. We stayed for two hours, scrubbing ourselves clean. And yes, we are really clean now. I mean REALLY. All the dead skin is gone and I really feel clean. Every one visiting Morocco should go!

We are going to stay here till Sunday and then will go direction Dakhla, visiting Plage Blanche and other places on the way. Luca and Francesca are coming with us and hopefully they will go all the way till Dakhla.

Part Three

We left Sidi Ifni around midday, met with Luca and Francesca outside of the camping and decided to go the road on the coast to Plage Blanche. Almost there we met a French family we knew from Sidi Ifni and who are on the road, maybe travelling around for three years, and they told us, that this way is not possible to go any further. So back we went to Sidi Ifni and then taking the road inland. Since it was already getting a little late, we decided to make a little trip off the road to go to the Thermals in Abaynou. The camping was only 30dh a night and the Thermals were right on the campground. From 19h on there are men and women allowed to go together.

But, I must say, I would NEVER again go in there. When we went (two couples and a little girl) we discovered that there were only men in the Thermals and the water was not that warm. We stayed maybe for half an hour and then left.

The next day we moved to Plage Blanche, where we met the French family again and stayed there for two nights. One night, at the beautiful but far away beach, and the other night we went to stay where there was supposed to be a party the next day. The night was horrible. The wind was blowing so hard, that we had to move the camper twice, always worrying that the wall might come off or the roof gets ripped away.

But we made it safe through the night, with little sleep and the desire to leave this windy place and move on. And so we did. The night we stayed in an Oasis outside of Guelmim and the next morning we left to Tan-Tan Plage. On the way one of the motor belts of our friend’s camper blasted away and we had to get a mechanic from Tan-Tan to come and fix it, which took us all day, lots of money and nerves. But we made it and were happy ever after. J

Again we talked to some mechanics, if they could help us with fixing our wall, but well, they didn’t really know how to do it and so we moved on.

The next night we spent in a beach called Chibika, beautiful landscape, full of campers. The wind was still blowing a little and the sand was flowing through the air. I was really getting sick of it, especially since the sun wasn’t shining and it was cold.

Luca and Francesca left to go back to Tan-Tan Plage and we wanted to meet in Akfennir. When we met them again, one of their tires busted and a rock which was stuck in between their twin wheels in the back hit a whole in the bottom of the camper. Shit.

After everything was fixed and we had some lunch we went direction Tarfaya, wanting to stay the night at the national park.

And how the destiny wants, we met there our friends Carmen and Herbert again!!!What a nice surprise. In the night we played cards and enjoyed the company. Luca and Francesca left the next day, they needed to get a new tire and we decided to stay one more night, thinking about going to Dakhla or not.

In the end we decided not to, went back to Guelmim, where we met the other day a moroccan guy who spoke German and decided to see if he can help us to find somebody to fix our wall.

We got there at night and the next morning we actually found a carpenter who is willing to repair the wall. But next week, so we left to go to Essaouira, drove the whole day to get here, because tomorrow there is some wind coming.

Part four

After a long ride we finally made it back to Sidi Kaouki. The next day the wind started and Patrick went windsurfing twice that day meanwhile I was taking some pictures. We met our friends the two sweet and lovely dogs who would love to come with us and finally have a home, but we can’t take them, we have no space and no home ourselves. We parked the camper close to a wall, to get protection from the wind and thought about going all the way back to Guilmim to fix the wall or not. It was a loooong ride and the wall didn’t get better from it.

Monday morning we went to Essaouira, to see if we can find someone who could help us with our wall, and after looking and asking around, we finally found a carpenter who wanted to do the job.

But before that, we called the guy in Guilmim, to tell him, that we would not come back and will try to get the wall fixed here.

We wanted to start on Wednesday and so we went back to Sidi Kaouki to relax and wait.

Two days later we went to his shop and started working. At 18:30h we were finished, and happy that the wall was fixed again. Not perfect, but well, we don’t care. The most important thing is that it doesn’t come off while driving and will last a little longer, so we can find a job over the summer and hopefully save enough money to buy a new one.

On Thursday the wind started again and so we went from Sidi Kaouki (where we stayed the night and before left all our stuff to have the camper empty to work with) back to Essaouira, but there was not enough wind. We decided to go back to Sidi Kaouki, but before, we wanted to see if it is possible to get to the beach where the hotels are. On the way, we saw some cars standing there and after a while, we also found the way to go. But when we got to the beach, we got stuck in the sand. Luckily there where two vans also from Germany and we got some help and some new friends!!!In the end we stayed there for about 5 days, Patrick went windsurfing almost every day; we had some nice fires on the beach, beautiful Tajine and enjoyed the very nice company.

Now we are on a camping close to Essaouira, on the road to Marrakech, called Le Calme. Here we recharged our batteries, took showers, isolated the rest of the camper and tomorrow we are off to Marrakech.

Part five

The road to Marrakech was quite nice and we arrived around four at the parking in front of the big mosque, close to the Djama el Fnaa. We went around a little, checked out the souk and after we brought Maya back to the camper, we went back to the square to get something to eat. But Marrakech is very touristic and after being talked at too many times, we left and went back to our "home".

The next morning we left Marrakech to go to Ouarzazate, to meet the friends we met in Essouira.

After about an hour, we finally found our way out of Marrakech and were on the road again....and what a beautiful road it was.....we passed the Atlas and got to Ouarzazate in the afternoon, where our friends already waited for us on a camping.

We decided to leave the next morning to move closer to the desert. And so off we were.

On our way, our friends picked up a Moroccan man who wanted to get to Agdz and invited us later to a tea at the place where we dropped him off.

There we met some Berbers, who told us that they go with the camels through the desert to Mali to change and to buy things. The trip usually takes three month to get to Mali and three month to get back. But this time they couldn’t go, because of the war which is going on in Mali.

They showed us beautiful silver jewelry from Mali and a silver stone, which was so heavy, that I could almost not hold it with one hand!!!

And then the Draa Valley started....wow....palm trees everywhere...a little river (the Draa) flowing in the valley and the landscape was just amazing.

Around four we decided to stop for the day. We saw some other camper trucks and decided to stay close to where they are, so we are not all alone. At night we tried to light up a little campfire, but sadly the old palm tree we found would not burn as good as we thought and the little stick of wood we found just gave us some light and warmth for a short time. Well, that’s how it is in the desert

When we got to Zagora, we decided to get our clutch fixed and when we pulled off to the mechanics, we met our other friends from France again. What a nice surprise!!!

When we left Zagora, it was already getting dark, so we decided to check a place to sleep somewhere and then go to MHamid where we wanted to stay for a few days!!

We reached the end of the road and just about twenty meters from its end, the axis of our friends van broke and we had to get to a mechanic. Again....!!!But we were lucky and in front of the mechanics, there was a perfect place for us to stay.

The same day, they took out the axis, send it with the public bus to Casablanca (there was a guy waiting for the part, to check a new one), but unfortunately the piece went all the way to Rabat. Well, but we are in Morocco and two days later, the axis arrived where we were and the van was fixed again!!!

After all this, we decided to go on a camping for two day and a nice German couple we met, told us that in MHamid is a very nice camping, owned by a Moroccan and a Spanish guy. It is called "Auberge Elkhaima" and a really good place to stay!!!

Two day later we left the desert, went back to Zagora to get our springs bent and put in a new one. We also got our brake disc, and so we spent the whole day at the mechanics again. But well, that’s what life is about and at least the sun was shining :-)

We met some French guy who were on a short trip to Morocco to start some projects at two schools here and the night we all spent together at a parking outside of Zagora, because on the way to the Draa Valley where we wanted to spent the night, there car broke down and since it was already night, our friends pulled it to the place, where we slept and from there we were off to Taghazout.

Part six...the end

To Taghazout we got late at night and stopped at the paid parking closest to the village. Later two of our friends came by to welcome us and we talked a little bit and wanted to go surfing the next day all together. One of our friends was sick (probably from the dirty water) but we went anyway. And the water was really disgusting and the waves were not so good.

The next days we went around, looking for good waves, surfing, taking pictures, chilling and being with our friends. On Saturday we left Taghazout to go to Essaouira, wind was coming.

We stayed for some days, made another pit stop at the camping “Le Calme” and on the tenth we left direction north. We had to leave the country on the 12^th of March.

The last night, we decided to stay at a gas station on the highway and leave early the next morning to get to Tanger.

When we were relaxing in our camper, listening to some stories on the computer, suddenly our van started shaking. We both thought it was the other who moved and didn’t say anything in the beginning. Then it happened again, but we still didn’t think of anything bad, maybe somebody just accidently came to close to the camper.

One minute later, somebody started climbing up our ladder to get to the roof. He wanted to steel the board which was up there. We both started shouting, after a few seconds finally Maya started barking and the guy who was on top of our roof left.

This night, we didn’t sleep very good, waking up at every little sound.

Nothing did happen during the whole trip, but on our last night…..

The next morning we left and went to Tanger, where we got told we have to go to Ceuta, because the ship was not going because of the wind and the waves.

So we drove those 25km more, went through customs and then, suddenly where in Spain. What a strange feeling, being still on the African continent, but already in Europe.

At the end, we had to stay one more night at the harbor, because since the Tanger ferry was not going, to many people where coming and the boat was full quickly.

So, this is the end of our second trip to Morocco and this time we really enjoyed it and are looking forward of coming back to this wonderful country with so many things to discouver!!!!